Thursday, July 26, 2012

Nikon Flickr Map Set

Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Capture Sharpen (and other questions)?



Capture Sharpen (and other questions)?

Jul 24, 2012 2:16 AM

I have been a very big advocate of capture sharpening for fine art workflow for more than a few years now (landscape fine art gallery enlargements). I was under the impression that in ACR (7.1) by using the Radius to the left (0.5) and Detail to the right (100) I was maximizing the deconvolution aspect of sharpening and maybe even drawing out a hair more real detail from the raw file.
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Today I did a test on a high frequency raw image (trees) and had my settings at Amount 45, Radius 0.5, Detail 0, and masking at 20. But then I also did it on the same image, this way: I brought a second version of the raw file into PS with no capture sharpening, and saved it as a tiff, then I brought that tiff back into ACR 7.1 and then did the capture sharpening. In Photoshop CS6 I put them on top of each other as layers (one raw sharpened and one tiff sharpened) and at all viewing distances they were exactly the same to my eye (I did notice that the histograms of each were very, very slightly different).
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But I could not see a single pixel or edge change anywhere in the image even at 1600% viewing distance. This seems to blow away my impression about deconvolution sharpening actually drawing out more real detail from a raw file. I totally understand that sharpening is not real detail, but on this forum years ago I came to believe that somehow a bit more real detail might be accessed in raw by the aforementioned settings. Any thoughts?
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Second question: do you really think there is a quantitative quality difference in detail (or the illusion of) in an image that has capture sharpening applied in ACR (7.1) at its native size, then is enlarged substantially with further rounds of sharpening and grain simulation in the end (versus just sizing it up soft and doing all the sharpening at the end)?  I did testing on this years ago and it seemed to be noticably better overall. I guess I'm just second guessing it again.
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My basic workflow is capture sharpen Radius 05. / Detail 100, then upsize with Smoother (40, 50, 60, 70 inches...) then do some moderate high pass, then advanced use of unsharp mask (LAB - L channel - or Luminosity - RGB - also blending/blend if sliders for fall off if necessary) then ACR grain simulation (on a seperate layer - not to create grainy photos - but create the illusion of more detail and to camouflage artifacting).  I believe after years of testing and practice this seems to be about as good as it gets for my content.
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Lastly, smart sharpen... I have not used this much, but do you think this workflow might benefit from using it instead of USM (with the more deconvolution - lens blur/more accurate) type of sharpen near the end)?
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Side note: for those involved with focus bracketing (for increased depth of field with the sharpest f/stop) it is common knowledge that capture sharpening at the raw stage (before the Auto Align and Auto Blend in PS) confuses the auto blend algorithm as to what are the real sharper pixels. So, we don't capture sharpen those images (this is common practice).
And after blending the images (Auto Blend) we usually just size up (for enlargement) and go.  Now I am thinking that afterthe focus blending is finished and the file is flattened it might be a good idea to bring that tif file back into ACR and apply a little bit of capture sharpening before the upsize. Does that make sense to you?
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Cheers for your time and feedback!
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Adobe Forums: New Nikon D3, D300, and D700 "Camera" v3 beta profiles

Adobe Forums: New Nikon D3, D300, and D700 "Camera" v3 beta profiles


adobe camera rawJan 20, 2011 10:14 AM

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Tuesday, July 24, 2012

Taking A Close up Object


Taking A Close up Object
The quickest way is to choose the close-up program from your camera's vari-programs/scene modes menu. The camera will set a relatively small aperture—about f/5.6 for enough depth-of-field to create a striking close-up photograph.
Lens choice is vital to the capturing a sharp, frame-filling close-up. If you're using a NIKKOR zoom with close-up capability, zoom out to the telephoto end of the focal length range and compose your image. Be aware of the closest focusing distance of the lens you're using; if you're closer to your subject than that limit allows, you won't be able to get a sharp picture. For the ultimate in close focusing capability, consider a Micro-NIKKOR lens. Available in focal lengths of 60mm, 105mm and 200mm, they are designed specifically for close-up photography—check them out here.
If you're using a NIKKOR image stabilization lens (it will have a VR, for vibration reduction, designation), activate the VR to ensure the sharpest possible image. If you've got a tripod, use it—and be sure VR is turned off.

How to Change a D-SLR Lens

How to Change a D-SLR Lens



One of the advantages of digital SLR (single-lens reflex) cameras is the ability to use a variety of different lenses. Changing lenses on your D-SLR isn't difficult, but there are good ways and not so good ways of going about it. Here are a few things to keep in mind when changing lenses.
Nikon's D-SLR cameras and lenses use a bayonet-style mount called the F Mount. Before attempting to mount or dismount a lens, make sure the camera's power is turned to the "Off" position. To mount a lens, match up the mounting index dots on the lens and camera body, insert the base of the lens into the mount and then turn the lens counterclockwise until it locks in place. Pressing the lens release button on the body and turning the lens about a quarter turn clockwise will remove it.
Lens Mounting Sequence
Anytime you change the lens on an SLR, you risk letting dust enter the camera. That dust can settle on the low-pass filter which is directly in front of the image sensor and can result in what looks like smudges or black or gray dots on your photos. To minimize the chance of that happening, you want to expose the inside of the camera body as little as possible when changing lenses. That means having the lens you want to put on the camera ready to go before you take the current lens off the camera. Again, make sure you turn the camera's power off before changing the lens as the image sensor itself generates a static electric charge that can attract dust. If you are using a VR (Vibration Reduction) lens, you will also want to turn the VR switch on the lens barrel to "Off". Next, shield your camera by turning your back to the wind, rain or dust that could possibly blow into the camera.
 
When handling a lens, grasp the lens barrel and avoid touching the front or rear elements to prevent fingerprints. Get in the habit of always using front and rear lens caps to further protect the lens elements. Practice changing lenses at home to become efficient at doing it quickly and easily.

The Nikon F-mount

The Nikon F-Mount was first employed on Nikon's earliest lens-interchangeable SLR camera, the Nikon F, released in June 1959. Nikon has consistently utilized the same mount without changing its basic structure, even as other SLR camera manufacturers found it necessary to alter their lens mounts in response to changing technologies, such as autofocus compatibility and digitalization.
One of the biggest advantages of lens-interchangeable SLR cameras is that users are able to choose from a larger selection of lenses. Maintaining the same basic structure of lens mount for a longer period means a broader, constantly growing array of compatible lenses. For this reason, the lens mount is an extremely important and symbiotic element for both photography enthusiasts and professionals, who are able to benefit from ongoing use of their carefully selected collection of lenses. The Nikon F-mount, employed for even the latest, most advanced digital SLRs, has received and continues to garner the highest evaluations as a reliable, long-serving lens mount.

Blur Clues


Blur Clues ( Bokeh) Tips :
Bokeh comes from the Japanese word boke (ボケ), which means "blur" or "haze", or boke-aji, the "blur quality." Bokeh is pronounced BOH-Kə or BOH-kay.

Visit any photography website or forum and you’ll find plenty of folks debating the pleasing bokeh that their favorite fast lenses allow. Adjectives that describe bokeh include: smooth, incredible, superb, good, beautiful, sweet, silky, and excellent… but what exactly is it?
Bokeh is defined as “the effect of a soft out-of-focus background that you get when shooting a subject, using a fast lens, at the widest aperture, such as f/2.8 or wider.” Simply put, bokeh is the pleasing or aesthetic quality of out-of-focus blur in a photograph.
Although bokeh is actually a characteristic of a photograph, the lens used determines the shape and size of the visible bokeh. Usually seen more in highlights, bokeh is affected by the shape of the diaphragm blades (the aperture) of the lens. A lens with more circular shaped blades will have rounder, softer orbs of out-of-focus highlights, whereas a lens with an aperture that is more hexagonal in shape will reflect that shape in the highlights.
Achieving Bokeh in Your Images
To achieve bokeh in an image, you need to use a fast lens—the faster the better. You’ll want to use a lens with at least an f/2.8 aperture, with faster apertures of f/2, f/1.8 or f/1.4 being ideal. Many photographers like to use fast prime lenses when shooting photographs that they want visible bokeh in.
You’ll want to shoot with the lens wide open, so you’ll want to use a shooting mode of Aperture Priority or Manual. Manual gives you the ability to choose both your aperture and shutter speed, whereas Aperture Priority allows you to choose the f/stop while the camera chooses the appropriate shutter speed for the exposure. You could also use the Flexible Program mode, choosing the widest possible aperture/shutter speed combination.
Don't worry if you don't own a very fast lens. By increasing the distance between the background and your subject, you can see bokeh in images that are shot at smaller apertures like f/8.
To increase the likelihood of visible bokeh in your photographs, increase the distance between your subject and the background. You can do this by decreasing the distance between the camera and subject. The more shallow the depth-of-field, or further the background is, the more out-of-focus it will be. Highlights hitting the background will show more visible bokeh too, so if you’re using a backlight, side light or a hair light, the bokeh may be more pleasing to the eye.
The most photographed subjects showing nice examples of bokeh are portraits. Close-up portraits show bokeh very well. Close-up and macro images of flowers and other objects in nature are also popular subjects to photograph that shows off bokeh in the image. An often-photographed subject that is an extreme example of bokeh is photographing a grouping of holiday lights or other highly reflective objects. When purposely photographed out-of-focus, these normally harsh or bright objects become soft, pastel, diffused orbs of glowing light.
Bokeh can add softness to an otherwise brightly lit photograph. Using this technique to separate your subject from the background can also allow you to utilize a not-so-photogenic background in your image—but because of its diffused blur, it helps to “highlight” the subject, not detract from it.

NIKON's FOTOGRAPHY TIPS

NIKON's FOTOGRAPHY TIPS

nikon

Nikon shares its Photography Tips for everyone. Today i will share those tips in bundle. All copyright about the tips belongs to Nikon. 
  1. The eyes, it is said, are the windows to the soul. Capture the personality of your subject, through her eyes. Make sure you can see them by zooming in on your subject or moving in close to her.
  2. Look up and down when walking around. The best picture may not be at eye level. Sometimes pointing the camera straight down on flowers or patterns in the sidewalk will give you impressive results. Looking up at buildings or the sky, will also give you an interesting viewpoint.
  3. If you’re doing a lot of macro photography using a D-SLR and Micro-NIKKOR lens, you can set the lens’ FULL/LIMIT selector to LIMIT. This will restrict focusing between the distances of 1:2.3 and 1:1 (life size).
  4. Next time you’re out shooting panoramas, try composing a few as verticals. Not all panoramic images need to be horizontal. Some subjects lend themselves well to a vertical composition.
  5. Try shooting panoramas even if you’re not taking photographs of grandiose landscapes. Panoramas can make pictures at the ballpark, beach or even picnics more interesting. Some Nikon Digital Cameras have an Easy Panorama mode or a Panorama Assist mode, which make these photos easy to shoot.
  6. Setting the correct date/time on your camera when you first install the batteries is a good idea. Image files with the correct date/time will be easier to sort through if you’re looking through a lot of photographs to find a specific one.
  7. When photographing animals of any kind—pets, birds in flight, animals at the zoo—try to zoom in as close as you can or use a longer lens to isolate the animal from its background. By getting a close-up view you have a greater chance of capturing a wonderful expression on the face of the animal, which will give you a more interesting photograph.
  8. If your subject is backlit, you may end up with a silhouette. If this is the effect you are going for, great! If not, add fill flash or use the exposure compensation (try +1).
  9. You can try a few different techniques to freeze motion: panning (which blurs the background while freezing your subject in motion), using a flash, or zooming out to a wider-angle view.
  10. If you’re shooting into the sun and are getting lens flare, a quick way to get rid of it is to ask a friend to place their hand above the camera lens, to block the flare from reaching the lens. You will be able to see if it is working. Just make sure you don’t see their hand in the frame when you take the photo.
  11. Most all photographers can take a moment to “tidy up” a scene before a picture is snapped. Photojournalists will leave everything as is but you don’t have to. Tidy a messy desk or straighten frames hanging on a wall behind your subject. Make sure they look good before you snap the photo. They’ll appreciate the photos more.
  12. Celebrate the first day of Spring by taking photographs of the changing seasons.
  13. Need some inspiration? Take out your camera’s manual and read about a shooting mode or setting that you don’t normally use. Spend a day practicing how to use it.
  14. Photographing at the zoo? Careful composition can hide the fact that your wild animal subjects are behind fences or in pens. Zoom in for tight close-ups so you don’t see man-made objects like fence posts, concrete swimming holes or perches for the animals to play on.
  15. When shooting landscapes, add a person into the composition for added interest.
  16. When shooting bodies of water, use a polarizing filter to reduce glare. It will increase the contrast of the overall image, making colors seem deeper and more vivid.
  17. When shooting through glass—at the zoo or aquarium—don’t use your flash. The flash burst will be visible reflected on the pane of glass, likely blocking your intended subject. Instead, increase the ISO if the lighting is not bright enough to take a photo.
  18. Successful close-ups of babies often involve eye contact. Focus on the eyes. Use a longer lens, or a macro lens, and get in tight on the eyes and nose. A lot of a child’s personality comes through the eyes. Remember to try to keep the nearest eye in focus, as that will feel more natural to the viewer. Use available light, no flash.
  19. Photograph kids at their eye level. Kneel, sit or lie on the ground. This will give you a unique perspective, plus get you more engaged with them.
  20. Spend a day taking photos using the effects modes that your camera offers. Some of these can be found in the menus, while others are located on the shooting mode dial. Check your camera manual to see where to find the effects available on your specific camera.
  21. Want a unique video of sports action? Use the slow-motion mode that many Nikon digital cameras offer. By shooting the action faster than normal and played back at normal speed, your subject’s movements are slowed down and look more deliberate.
  22. Sometimes you just need to throw out the rules. Tilt the camera for different angles and unique compositions. An old filmmaking term is called “Dutch Tilt” (made famous by Alfred Hitchcock). It’s skewing the horizon or lines in the picture by being different. As long as something is recognizable, it will work.
  23. Compose photos using the “rule of thirds.” Think of the frame as being broken into nine rectangles (like a tic-tac-toe grid over the picture). Place your subject at one of the intersections of the lines for a more visually stimulating photo.
  24. Take a moment to look at the photo framed in the viewfinder or LCD before you snap it. Make sure you can see over the tops of your subject’s heads, and all the way to their feet if you’re taking a full-length portrait. It is easy to cut off part of a person if you’re in a rush to snap a picture.
  25. Like the look of HDR (High Dynamic Range) photography but not sure you’d be able to pull off the technique? A number of Nikon cameras have a built-in HDR mode where the camera does the hard work for you. Check your manual to see if your specific camera offers this feature.
  26. If you’re taking really important photos that you won’t be able to recreate, bracket your exposures to ensure the photos look great. Most Nikon digital cameras have an exposure-bracketing mode that you can set. It is faster if you let the camera do the bracketing, instead of you having to snap a photo, change the exposure, snap another frame, change it again, and snap a new frame.
  27. A great way to remember your trips or special events is by making a photo book. It's a fun way to share your photographic experiences with friends.
  28. Use the pet scene mode on your digital camera if it has one, when you take portraits of cats or dogs. If your camera doesn’t have a pet mode, disable the audible beeps and focus assist lamps while photographing them so the lights and sounds don’t distract them.
  29. When photographing a lot of people at a party or gathering, use your camera’s Smart Portrait System to help you get better pictures. The blink mode lets you know if your subjects blinked, and the smile timer can snap the photo when the camera sees that your subjects are smiling. There’s also a softening feature that can be found in the retouch menu of some Nikon digital cameras to enhance skin-tone.
  30. If you’re using a GPS-enabled COOLPIX digital camera and are on vacation and not sure where to go next, check out the POI (Points of Interest) feature which will let you know of landmarks that are near your location.
  31. Find a photography club or group and sharpen your skills. Many community colleges have gatherings of photographers, or check Meetup.com to find a group nearby. You could also join an online photography community such as Flickr to get feedback and critiques of your photography.

No longer support FTP publishing in Blogger after March 26, 2010


Blogger Buzz

  wrote : 
blogger


Last May, we discussed a number of challenges facing Blogger users who relied on FTP to publish their blogs. FTP remains a significant drain on our ability to improve Blogger: only .5% of active blogs are published via FTP — yet the percentage of our engineering resources devoted to supporting FTP vastly exceeds that. On top of this, critical infrastructure that our FTP support relies on at Google will soon become unavailable, which would require that we completely rewrite the code that handles our FTP processing.

Three years ago we launched Custom Domains to give users the simplicity of Blogger, the scalability of Google hosting, and the flexibility of hosting your blog at your own URL. Last year's post discussed the advantages of custom domains over FTP and addressed a number of reasons users have continued to use FTP publishing. (If you're interested in reading more about Custom Domains, our Help Center has a good overview of how to use them on your blog.) In evaluating the investment needed to continue supporting FTP, we have decided that we could not justify diverting further engineering resources away from building new features for all users.

For that reason, we are announcing today that we will no longer support FTP publishing in Blogger after March 26, 2010. We realize that this will not necessarily be welcome news for some users, and we are committed to making the transition as seamless as possible. To that end:
  • We are building a migration tool that will walk users through a migration from their current URL to a Blogger-managed URL (either a Custom Domain or a Blogspot URL) that will be available to all users the week of February 22. This tool will handle redirecting traffic from the old URL to the new URL, and will handle the vast majority of situations.
  • We will be providing a dedicated blog and help documentation to provide as much information as possible to help guide users through the migration off of FTP.
  • Blogger team members will also be available to answer questions on the forum, comments on the blog, and in a few scheduled conference calls once the tool is released.
We have a number of big releases planned in 2010. While we recognize that this decision will frustrate some users, we look forward to showing you the many great things on the way. Thanks for using Blogger.

Table of Content

http://nikonflickr.blogspot.com/ 2012-07-23T23:28:14+00:00 http://nikonflickr.blogspot.com/2012/07/beauty-nature-east-nusa-tenggara.html 2012-07-23T23:28:14+00:00 http://nikonflickr.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default 2012-07-23T23:28:14+00:00 http://nikonflickr.blogspot.com/2012_07_01_archive.html 2012-07-23T23:28:14+00:00 http://nikonflickr.blogspot.com/feeds/8755785949976969052/comments/default 2012-07-23T22:36:13+00:00

Beauty nature East Nusa Tenggara

Here is all photo at East Nusa Tenggara, the East shoutern Indonesia. Many beauty places that make our eyes so cool. so, lets enjoy the nature. Nembrala, Rote ndao

Monday, July 23, 2012

WinTuning 7 v2.05.1 full Crack

WinTuning 7 v2.05.1 full Crack | free download incl crack + patch with keygen and serial. WinTuning 7 for quick and easy setup, optimize and clean your Windows 7. WinTuning 7 has extensive capabilities for configuring the system, including configuration settings, which are available through the graphical interface. All settings are designed specifically for Windows 7. In addition to opportunities for optimization and tuning of the system, WinTuning 7 contains some additional tools. With their help, you will have access to hundreds of hidden options to improve system performance and security, to clear the Windows 7 system junk files, optimize your Internet settings for optimal use of all the bandwidth and much more. WinTuning 7 includes a unique module, which is unparalleled in the world, for the remote optimization of Windows 7 from a control center.




WinTuning 7 v2.05.1 full Activation you can easily customize, optimize, tweak and enhance your Windows 7. It bundles a lot of tweaks to get your system faster and more stable, secure and personal! WinTuning 7 is the most powerful tweaking and customizing All-In-One Utility designed for Windows 7 exclusively. Get access to the hundreds of hidden options to improve system’s performance and security, erase junk files, optimize network to speed connection, run any Windows 7 utility by one click, and many other miscellaneous utilities. WinTuning 7 includes a unique module which does not have of analogs all over the world: WT7 3C for remote optimization of Windows 7 from a Control Center called WinTuning 7 Clients Control Center.

Features and Benefits of WinTuning 7
• WinTuning 7 includes the unique unit which does not have of analogs all over the world: WT7 3C for remote optimization of Windows 7 from a Control Center called WinTuning 7 Clients Control Center. More;
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• Customize Windows 7 Logon Screen;
• Show the collection of Windows utilities;
• Get detailed system and all hardware information on your system;
• Edit context menus of mouse Right-Clicking;
• All operations performed on the operating system are completely safe, because all changes can be undone at any time.

This software can running in Windows 7 and support by Language : Multilingual